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The treen guide to Edinburgh

Image displays the Edinburgh skyline in autumn

Discover our pick of the city’s best shops, sights, bars and restaurants.



To eat

Timberyard + Montrose
This family-run restaurant is a cornerstone of Edinburgh’s culinary landscape, serving up seasonal dishes in a refurbished warehouse since 2017. Timberyard’s creative approach to cuisine earned it a Michelin star in 2023, aligning with the opening of Montrose, its sister wine bar and small-plate restaurant.


The Free Company

Occupying a 1000-foot plot at the base of the Pentland Hills, The Free Company hosts communal farm-to-table dining experiences in a rustic former barn. Produce is grown regeneratively on the land and transformed into six courses, served alongside eco-friendly wine and foraged cocktails.


Twelve Triangles

With seven locations around Edinburgh, Twelve Triangles’ mainstay status grows by the day. The scratch bakery is beloved for its sourdough loaves and inventive pastries – expect everything from baklava buns to twice-baked croissants.


Skua

Skua is a small but mighty addition to the Stockbridge food scene, with a subterranean feel emphasised by all-black interiors and a changing menu based on seasonal ingredients from local producers.

To drink

Spry

After a meal somewhere along Leith Walk, Spry is the best spot for a post-dinner tipple. Serving small-batch natural wines and seasonal sharing plates in elegant Georgian surrounds, this intimate bar is a must-visit for aspiring sommeliers.


BEATNIK

Just steps from the Meadows, BEATNIK is the southside’s coolest hangout. Carve out an hour, bring a book and sample the award-winning speciality coffee from roasters around the world.


Bramble

Bramble might be easy to miss, but you’ll be rewarded for discovering this cosy basement bar. Under the glow of candlelight, sink into an old leather armchair and choose from the menu of classic and nouveau cocktails.


Nauticus

It would be a shame to visit Scotland without sampling its world-famous whiskey. Turn to Nauticus, a wood-panelled tavern boasting tasteful maritime-inspired decor. As of 2024, 90% of its available liqueurs are either Scottish or have Scottish links.


Fortitude

Fortitude started with a narrow coffee shop on York Place, expanding to two light-filled spaces once the community became hooked on its richly flavoured roasts and artisan bakes.

To shop

Bard

Bard is a celebration of Scottish craft and design, located in Leith’s creative hub, Custom Lane. Founded by husbands Hugo Macdonald and James Stevens, the shop and gallery showcases ceramics, textiles and artisan furniture from the country’s most talented craftspeople.


Kestin

With Kestin as our neighbour, inspiration is never far away. The inviting shop is home to the brand’s impeccably crafted men’s clothing, all designed and made in Scotland, and a small collection of candles and drinkware.


Communiqué

This stylish wine shop is a new addition to Stockbridge, and it’s already amassed a loyal clientele (us included) with its olive-and-gold facade and generous selection of wines from international vineyards.


ALC

Denim enthusiasts, make sure you wind your way to Thistle Street to visit ALC. The independent boutique is entirely devoted to jeans, carrying styles from sought-after brands like AGOLDE, Frame and PAIGE.


Lifestory

A charming slice of Scandinavia in the Scottish capital, Lifestory sells design-led homeware and accessories from Nordic brands like Ferm Living and Hay, as well as ceramics and jewellery by local makers.

To do

Fruitmarket

Formerly the trading ground of fruit and vegetable sellers, Fruitmarket kept its name but overhauled its identity. Now one of Scotland’s leading contemporary art galleries with a diverse programme, the space has exhibited global artists including William Kentridge, Eva Hesse and Louise Bourgeois.


Royal Botanic Garden

If you’ve been graced with sunshine during your time in Edinburgh, make a bee-line for the Botanics and while away the afternoon in its verdant gardens. This destination looks different every season, so it’s well worth a repeat visit.


Calton Hill

Take in the entire city from the top of Calton Hill, set just five minutes from Princes Street. After a short walk uphill, you’ll be treated to panoramic views – and a spectacular sunrise, if you get there early enough.


National Gallery of Modern Art

The Modern encompasses two grand buildings nestled in a rolling sculpture park. With both a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions from renowned artists, this is a captivating place to spend a day.

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